Costa Rica Journal

I had dreamed of climbing Mt. Chirripo for years. Mt. Chirripo is the highest mountain in Costa Rica at 3,820 meters (12,533 ft). The summit of Chirripo is the only spot where you can actually see all the way across the continent - from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea!

With my son Chris coming down from Seattle to visit me in Costa Rica last week, it seemed like the perfect time to climb it. I knew that it would be a great journey, but I had no idea that it would turn out to be one of the top three hikes of my life (along with the Kalalau Trail in Kauai and the Grand Canyon).

Mt. Chirripo is known for its incredibly high biodiversity and its "sky islands" - peaks of cloud forest with amazing plants and animals including jaguars, pumas, tapirs, as well as fabulous birds like toucans, trogons, cusingas, and last but not least, the legendary Resplendent Quetzal!

The Resplendent Quetzal

Since this is Costa Rica, nothing involving government bureaucracy is easy, including dealing with the Park Service. It isn't that the Ticos (Costa Ricans) don't want to be helpful, its just that in Costa Rica leisure time is the main act, and work is the sideshow. Who really wants to be in the office when you could be napping in a hammock at the beach?

We had tried calling the official park service booking line back in December. The phone rang unanswered for days. Finally somebody picked up the phone with a slightly resentful tone. Sorry, they said, there were absolutely no permits available for March, April or even May.

Rather than get discouraged, we decided to drive up to the Chirripo park office in San Gerardo de Rivas to see for ourselves. We found out from the friendly park ranger that there were ten additional first come, first served permits available per day. So we came back the next day at 6:30 AM to beat out the rest of the hopeful hikers.

Having secured our permits for two nights at the summit, we only had 24 hours to prepare (you have to use your permit the following day). So after a hectic day of preparations and a few hours sleep, Chris, my girlfriend Tatiana and I got up at 4 AM and arrived at the start of the trail at 5:30 AM.

And so we begin the hike.....

Chris and Tatiana at the Trailhead

The hike starts off with El Termometro ("The Thermometer"), one of three infamous steep sections of the trail. If you don't get through this section before the sun comes up, you will suffer the consequences - thus the name!

The First Ridge (of Many to Follow...)

If you are an endurance athlete, climbing Mt. Chirripo is no big deal. If you are a weekend warrior, you will definitely find it challenging. It typically takes 8 to 9 hours of continuous hiking just to reach the alpine refuge.

The Cemetery of the Machines

The climb up the Thermometer was steep. At the top we reached Cementario de la Maquina ("Cemetery of the Machines"). Apparently even the machines gave up by the time they reached the top! Great name for a hard rock band BTW...

Chirripo Trail Steps

The trail was beautifully maintained - clearly a labor of love. In some places steps made from naturally fallen timber had been cut and placed.

Emerald Toucanet

We saw our first interesting bird above the 2 kilometer mark - the Emerald Toucanet!

The Amazing Cusinga

The Toucanet is closely related to my favorite bird in Costa Rica - the amazing Cusinga! It's like a bird out of a Dr. Suess book. I mean, really - a bird with a rainbow beak, a yellow vest and a bright red cummerbund? Surely you jest...

The Gate to Chirripo National Park

After climbing a bit more, we came to the first gate - the actual park boundary of Chirripo National Park. From here on up to the top, the forest is protected.

The Tropical Oak

To me, the real crown jewel of Chirripo is the old growth Tropical Oak Forest that extends most of the way up the mountain. This amazing ecosystem used to cover most of the high mountain regions of Central America, but is now mostly gone due to logging and clearing for grazing.

Epiphytes

These trees tower up to 180 feet high and have massive branches that are covered in hanging moss and epiphytes - sometimes called "air plants" as they get all their nutrition from leaf litter and debris that fall into their pineapple-like leaves. The epiphytes serve as nurseries for tree frogs and other small animals.

Polymorphic Butterfly

The biodiversity is nothing short of amazing. With so many things around that want to eat you, you have to develop creative defense mechanisms. This butterfly has developed a pattern on it's wings that makes it look like the eye of an owl to scare away predators. This kind of survival strategy is called polymorphism.

Scenic Views on All Sides

The beauty of the trail through this forest is almost impossible to describe. The towering oaks frame beautiful mountain views on every side. The air is filled with the calls of tropical birds.

Shaded Trails

The vegetation forms a canopy over the trail, forming a deliciously cool tunnel shielded from the blazing tropical sun.

Barbas de Viejo

The next ecosystem we pass through is a zone of sphagnum moss called Barbas de Viejo, "Old Man's Beard". This is followed by a zone dominated entirely by dwarf bamboo. Mt. Chirripo has more ecosystems than some countries...

Welcome to the Quetzal Zone

At 7,000 feet we entered the home of the Resplendent Quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno). This bird is the ultimate goal for birdwatchers in Central America.

The Quetzal at Home

This Quetzal's tail is so big that it can't even fit in the nest hole!

Los Quemados

We finally hit 10,000 feet in elevation! It's been a long climb to get to this point. We are now entering Los Quemados ("The Burns"). This area is susceptible to forest fires, originally from lightning strikes but now overwhelmingly man made. One fire was started by a man who set fire to a pile of tapir dung to try and stay warm.

Baird's Tapir

What's a tapir, you ask? Why it's a a large browsing mammal with a prehensile snout, of course. Also a favorite meal for jaguars. Now an endangered species throughout it's range.

Entering Los Quemados

Some accounts I had read had made it sound like Los Quemados was a wasteland after the recent fires. In actuality, they have had the salutary effect of creating a zone of beautiful alpine wildflowers.

Wildflowers of Chirripo

As we started to climb into the alpine zone, we were faced with the last of the fearsome steep pitches on the trail - Los Arrepentidos.

Los Arrepentidos

When a trail is called "The Repentants" in a Catholic country, you know you are about to suffer. Here is Chris looking suitably repentant as we prepare to scale the last few kilometers before reaching the alpine refuge.

The Alpine Hut (El Refugio)

Finally, a sight for sore eyes (and legs) - El Refugio, the alpine hut at over 11,000 feet. We have reached the Paramo, a stunted high altitude ecosystem of endemic grasses and plants. And directly across from it, a wondrous sight...

Los Crestones

Los Crestones. These crags of glacially carved andesite from the Pleistocene Age tower over the entrance to the inner alpine valley.

Tatiana at Sunrise

In the morning, we got up after after a fitful nights sleep on our hard bunks at the refugio, ready to climb to the summit. The refugio is located next to a clear glacial spring which provides water to the facility.

Ice on the Paramo

The Paramo is covered with a layer of ice after a subzero night. This is the first time Tatiana has ever seen ice that was not produced by a refrigerator (or Alaskan guys wearing long underwear for that matter...)

The Final Approach

Finally the peak is in sight! We can see the Costa Rican flag waving on top...

Alpine Lake

There are extensive alpine lakes visible from the final ascent, where pumas, tapirs and other wildlife come up from the cloud forest valleys to drink the pure cool water. These lakes are remnants of the last ice age.